UV sterilizers can be great items. For planted tanks, ponds, and saltwater tanks, sometimes they are the only things that will keep the free floating algae and such under control. They can also oxidize free carbon content and enhance the quality of your RO water (I’m assuming you use it in the planted tank). For an in-sun pond, nothing can beat it in terms of lessening green water problems. Nothing sucks more than having beautiful, active, healthy koi and not being able to see them because of murky water.I doubt it will help with lessening the tannins. Fortunately tannins are only a cosmetic problem, not a health risk. It will lessen over time, and also lessen with regular water changes. As far as I know, there’s no other way to reduce them once they’re already in your tank. Soaking the driftwood extensively in a bucket of water and draining and replacing the water several times will help remove tannins, but that only works before you add it to your tank.Your livebearers may be having problems because platies and swordtails like hard, slightly alkaline water and I’m willing to bet you have extremely soft, slightly acidic water. They will probably adapt, but supplementing their diet with a food with lots of kelp and spirulina in it will help them get the calcium they need. I use Omega One super veggie flakes (also comes in pellets) with great success with all my livebearers.

Some suggestions that I myself would do: your maincharacter uses shadow powers and comes from a “kingdom”. Having the game set in modern timeframe would confusealot of people. So i would say set it in midevil times. Secondly that’s alot of characters to stomach so unless you plan on having a 98 hour long rpg I would say cut some characters. Lastly, those names aren’t very original, and you don’t want people thinkingthe characters are corny. These are onlysuggestions, forall I know I could sound like an idiot. Goodluck and enjoy makingur game.

Yeah…ok…first of all, they’re only going to be testing the LHC starting tomorrow. They need to make sure all the equipment is working before they start any experiments. They won’t actually start smashing particles into each other for at least a month.Second of all, there’s been plenty of material published by the scientists about why the black-hole scenario – and all other doomsday scenarios – just aren’t going to happen.People have made doomsdays predictions before too. For instance, it was believed that traveling faster than the speed of sound would kill you because you wouldn’t be able to breathe. Then Chuck Yeager broke the sound barrier in an experimental jet. Before that, it was thought that an atomic weapon would ignite the oxygen in the atmosphere, causing a global fire storm that would wipe out all life on Earth. That too was proven wrong.The LHC doomsdays predictions will also be proven wrong. People are just getting worked up about things they don’t fully understand – and the media is having a field day feasting on everyone’s ignorance and fear.

I think you are a bit confused… Plants need: Light, Nutrition, and Carbon Dioxide. Algae are plants. If you add in Carbon Dioxide it will benefit both your plants and the algae. It wont stop algae from growing. Let’s see what makes algae grow in tanks:1. Too little/much lighting,2. Inappropriate feeding which leaves food to decompose,3. Bad filtration and aeration,4. A lot of sunlight,5. Frequent temperature changes,6. Dead fish or plants in the tank.I think your problem is too much lighting. Reduce the hours of lighting. Sun is good for your plants, but try to keep your tank out of direct sunlight. Place it next to a window that gets light, but not direct sunshine. And try to fix the other problems if you can. Your second problem is adding those Otos! Otos do eat some algae, but they eat mostly Brown Algae and some soft algae out there. They don’t do anything much to hair algae or green dot algae!Coming to your specific algae:Green Dot Algae- This algae can be found in tanks with high levels of light. You will probably not need to buy algae eaters for removing it since green dots usually don’t take over the entire tank and grow sporadically in sizes of about 0.1mm up to 2-3mm. In addition, algae eaters don’t eat it. If using a brush or other tools, you will spend a lot of time on it, because it’s very difficult to remove, especially from glass. I find a toothbrush the best thing to use against this. Get a new toothbrush, you don’t want toothpaste in your tank.Hair algae- One way to fight against hairs in aquarium is to cut it from time to time as well as plants which are sick. You don’t need to remove the whole plant, just the part where the hair grows. Sellers like to sell Ancistrus species as the first solution. I wouldn’t recommend them since only small specimens (up to 1cm in length) eat this algae. Adult fish are too lazy to climb the plants to eat it. They like granules, vegetables, beef heart much more than the hair algae and will rather wait until you feed them. Common plecos are considered to be an “outstanding solution”, however as they grow up their feeding habits change. They also grow big (up to 2 feet in length) and are VERY heavy waste producers. Things to remember:- Algae is common in all tanks. You won’t ever fully get rid of it. It doesn’t harm fish. It’s a plant. It’s just a visual nuisance for people.- When starting an aquarium, put as many of those “cheap, fast growing” plants in your tank as possible. These grow so fast that they often out compete algae for nutrients in the water. Larger plants usually grow slower, hence the algae wins that race. Try putting more plants in your tank too. They will offer competition to your algae.- Keep snails in your aquariums. Ramshorn snails work best in my opinion. These snails are useful because they remove dead plant material. Decaying plant material can lead to unwanted algae blooms too. I like keeping adult Ramshorn snails with Amano shrimp. Amano shrimp will graze on soft green algae too. What’s better, they keep the snail population in check for you by eating their eggs and young. Coming to your original question:- You should inject carbon dioxide for your plants, depending on the amount of plants you have. For 4 small plants I would suggest dropping one of those pellets that you make at home. A small one. Commercial injectors can also be used. – Otos wont clear hair algae.

Your sure do know alot about fish and your only 11 yrs. old, good for you. I am a fish lover as well.I’m sorry for the loss of Tango. I just lost my Angel that i raised. Out of l00s of frys she was the only one to live, she lasted for 3 years. So i do understand. What do you think about getting swordfish, cherry barbs only 2 or 3 any more then that and they like to attack in packs. I LOVE sharks, they like to swim around alot and can grow big, but they will not bother any other fish. Please make sure you are not over feeding your fish. Did you know the size of a fishs eye is the size of their stomach. Feed them very little, they will still be healthy and happy. Good Luck and keep up the good work young man. Oh, i highly recommend buying this book (the Simple Guide Freshwater Aquariums by David E. Boruchowitz) very helpful.

Tank #1: Is 300w of heating really needed? I suppose, if it’s not broke, don’t fix it. One worry I have is the Kenyi… they are one of the most aggressive african cichlids. I’d worry about them picking on the more peaceful (well… peaceful relative to african cichlids) yellow labs. They may like a finer substrate… makes it easier for them to dig out their caves.Tank #2: Not much to add. Anything I’d comment on you already know based on your own comments. Keep an eye on your water parameters. The rocks may leach excessive calcium or carbonates into the water, depending on what they’re made of. (IE: Limestone would cause both GH and KH to increase)Tank #3: 50/50 bulb is a bit of a waste. While it will deliver a lot of blue, a 6500k bulb has a good amount of that already. If your lighting is short on red, it could cause some growth issues with your plants. You also don’t mention what type of bulb. If it’s T8 or T12, good. If it’s it’s T5NO or T5HO, too much light. 20 long isn’t all that deep and that much light close to the substrate will lead to algae after your plants devour all the nutrients and deficiencies start.Anubias is a low light plant with thicker leaves. Under high light, it tends to become a good bed for algae. Ottos will help keep it in check until it gets established, but once it does, they won’t be able to help out.Amazon swords get rather large. I’ve had some in a 55 gallon that reached the top of the water. They can get up around 21 inches in optimal conditions.Java fern is also a low light plant, but handles high light pretty well. Since it’s a shorter plant, and low light, it can live in the shade created by amazons fairly well.80 is a bit high for a planted aquarium. You may see reduced CO2 dissolution at those temps. Depending on what type of bulbs you have, that could be an issue. High light tends to require high CO2 or algae takes over. If they’re T5HO bulbs, you won’t have enough CO2 without gassing out your fish.You don’t mention what fertilizers your use. Again, nutrient deficiencies can lead to algae problems.

Don’t worry. It’s most likely the food. Most foods have additives that bring out the fancy colors of neons. Pet stores typically use the cheap foods, which probably explains their coloring. Also, since they were bought at a different time you have to consider the fact that they aren’t going to be exactly the same. They might be mixed with a little something extra or been cared for differently. I’d recommend feeding them normally and keeping and eye on their health. If anything looks funny, remove them from the tank so your two others don’t get sick. Good luck!!